James Cohen : Turkoman

Introduction

Welcome to my Turkoman catalogue and also to the show at ICOC in Stockholm, 2011, where all thirty pieces are on display and for sale. It gives me great pleasure to be a part of this event and I hope you will be able to share my enjoyment.

Few people know that I have developed a passion for Turkmen and it seemed like a good way to publicise it in the form of an exhibition and an accompagning catalogue. The idea began about two years ago when I was offered a small group of weavings from a very good collection that I thought were worthy of some exposure but I needed more so since then I have been putting aside the best Turkoman pieces I could find, travelling the world and visiting private collectors in order to do so.

Turkoman weavings have sometimes been described as the 'intellectual' or 'the thinking rug col- lectors rug' because of the amount of research that goes into structural analysis and the impor- tance attached. I have often been slightly intimidated by hearing collectors talking in hushed tones about asymmetrically knotted Yomud this or two ply mixed cotton wefted that and how it makes such a huge difference to the geographical origin of the piece in question. This is all very good and true but for me, the beauty comes from the surface, regardless of how they were woven and an ugly rug is still just that, no matter how it is made. Accordingly, I have chosen each piece in this exhibition according to my aesthetic sensitivities.

The Turkoman, with their relatively limited pallete, can nonetheless produce a range of astoni- shingly rich reds, blues and greens, with wool pile that is the equal in shine and glow, to the best of any other weaving group.

Some of my favourite pieces are the green ground Okbash fragment used on the cover, now re- cycled into a smaller bag, the rather naive Beshir Torba with the Ikat design, the Tekke six gul with the orangey red ground, the Asmalyk with the tiny figure and, of course, the stunningly rare Salor Kapunuk in outstanding condition. These are just a few of the group of weavings that I have had great pleasure in accumulating and I hope you will find something that speaks to you, as much as they have spoken to me.

James Cohen

May 2011

2.Yomud 'Nine Gul' Chuval

First Half Nineteenth Century 3'5" x 1'9" / 105cm x 53cm

This  chuval has a particularly archaic feeling to it, with nice space in the  field and relatively simple, empty drawing to the guls. The 'Bat  Border' is nicely rendered and there is an above average use of teal  throughout and also small highlights of yellow in the secondary guls.  The drawing is improved through the use of shared knotting techniques.

Low  pile, some foundation showing, slight discolouration and losses to  edges, now secured. Symmetrically knotted with a bias to the left, ivory  woollen warp and dark brown wefts.

3. Chodor '16 Gul' Chuval with Chuval Gul

First Half Nineteenth Century    3'8" x 2'1" / 113cm x 63cm
The Chodor pallete is more often than not rather light but here we have the dark, rich complexion that works so well, with a bottle green and yellow used plentifully.
Small faded reweave, missing side cords and overbound on all four sides otherwise in good original pile. Asymmetrically knotted open right, woollen warp, weft one shoot white cotton, one shoot dark brown wool.

4.Yomud Ensi

Circa 1850    4'4" x 5'9" / 133cm x 175cm
This is the first of three examples in this catalogue, of a Yomud ensi with a light blue 'Skirt' or 'Elem' filled with trees. A colourful piece with a pliable, soft handle and very good wool. An abrash in the ivory causes the middle part of the rug to 'pop' attractively and the balance of colours is well rounded, with even a stripe of aubergine abrashed into the lower middle background. Details of Lac also used.
Low to good pile, original sidecord has been mostly re-wrapped, original kilim end at the top, bottom secured, no other restoration.
Symmetrically knotted bias to the right, light brown woollen warp, dark brown woollen weft.

 5. Small Tekke Rug

Second Half Nineteenth Century    3'9" x 5'5" / 115cm x 165cm
This Tekke rug has been woven as finely as a 'Six Gul' and so it must have involved a great deal of time and energy to create. Also a great deal of thought seems to have gone into the colour as there are many nuanced shades of cherry and brick red used in the ground and abundant use of bottle green in the guls. The lattice connecting the guls is something we more normally see in Main carpets and certainly in the older weavings.
In outstanding full pile with only very light insect damage. Asymmetrically knotted open right, ivory wool warp, mid brown woollen weft.

11.Yomud Mafrash

Circa 1880 2'10" x 1'5" / 85cm x 43cm

A not so uncommon weaving but with a particularly attractive mid blue border and a good sparkle to the wool. Slightly larger than usual diagonal rows of the 'Erre' gul with additional arrowhead forms and a nice mahogany ground colour.

In excellent condition but missing its kilim back. Symmetrically knotted, ivory woollen warp, part brown wool and part cotton weft.

12. Tekke 'Six Gul' Torba with 'Box Border'

First Half Nineteenth Century 3'9" x 1'4" / 115cm x 40cm

Six guls can be very stiff looking affairs but this lovely example is definitely more on the loose side. The top row of guls is taller than the bottom row which lends a little relief and the bottom row also differs by having an additional set of blue hooks on each side of the gul. All of the guls have double-horned animal heads and are joined to their lower neighbour by a blue line reminiscient of the grid used in main carpets, but they are not similarly connected to their horizontal neighbours.

Beautiful orange-red and teal, excellent patina. Overall good condition, one area of low pile, one small hole, slight damage to sides, slight insect damage. Asymmetrically knotted open right, ivory woollen warp and brown woollen weft.

13. Beshir Torba

First Half Nineteenth Century 3'9" x 1'6" / 115cm x 45cm

A rather naive interpretation of the 'Ikat' design, this is another favourite of mine. Very lustrous pile with strong clear reds, yellows and greens.

Pile is low in parts, mostly high, with some damage to the sides. Wool and cotton pile, asymmetrically knotted open right, brown goat hair warp, brown woollen weft.

14. Tekke '12 Gul' Torba

Second Half Nineteenth Century 4'8" x 1'9" / 145cm x 53cm

This large torba is finely woven and has an additional outer border of flowering plant-forms. Within the guls are single-horned animal heads. Good strong colour with a rich red and plenty of green, as well as touches of Lac and yellow

Excellent patina.

In excellent condition with high pile allover, very minor re-piling to insect damage in the bottom outer border and slight damage to the two upper corners. Slight glue residue on backside, missing kilim back.

Asymmetrically knotted with brown woollen weft and ivory woollen warp.

15. Beshir Prayer Rug

First Half Nineteenth Century 3'2" x 5'3" / 97cm x 160cm

Somewhat distressed, this little prayer rug has an eary feel to it despite, or perhaps because of, the rather crude weave. The ivory field is covered with an elaborately branching tree, bearing pendant fruit which can only be pomegranates. As is often the case with Beshir prayer rugs, there is more than one niche. One is for- med by the shape in the middle of the field that rises from the lower border and the second descends from the upper border.

Worn, with crudely restored holes, low to medium pie, missing guard border top and bottom and no original selvedge.

Asymmetrically knotted open right, dark brown goat hair warp, light brown woollen weft.

16. Ersari Ensi

Circa 1850 4'6" x 5'8" / 138cm x 175cm

The enlarged, bold design used in the 'Skirt' of this attractive ensi is immediately apparent. The break in the left-hand inner guard border, the use of stars as the inner element of the main border- some with small flowers at the points, some without, and the introduction of two small 'Prayer niches' are all noteworthy features but particularly attractive is the long lustrous pile, dyed in rich earthy tones of brick red, mid blue, apricot, green and touches of clear yellow.

The condition is generally excellent with one crude repair centre field and a small mark below and to the right. Original goat hair wrapped selvedges-missing in places-, original kilim and brocade at the top, kilim end at bottom beginning to fray in one corner.

Asymmetrically knotted open right, grey/brown woollen warp and weft.

17. Beshir Torba

Second Half Nineteenth Century 2'5" x 1'3" / 70cm x 38cm

Small examples of Beshir weavings with the so-called 'Serpent' design seem to be more unusual. This one has the full range of colours including two greens, two blues and some yellow. There is also some undyed brown wool pile that is standing a little proud.

In excellent pile but missing most of the upper border and losses to the other three sides, now secured. Asymmetrically knotted open right, goat hair warp, pink/red woollen weft.

18.Yomud Asmalyk

Second Half Nineteenth Century 4' x 2'5" / 124cm x 70cm

Shared knotting allows for greater flexibility in the drawing and it shows in the very circular shapes formed in the negative space around the guls.

Low to medium pile, some minor old faded repiling, missing side cords, now secured. Symmetrically knotted, ivory woollen warps, mixed cotton and brown woollen weft.

19.Yomud Main Carpet Fragment

18th Century or earlier 1'10" x 7'8" / 55cm x 235cm

The relative size of the inner and outer guard border and the fluid movement of the main border indicate an early date, as does the range and type of colour. The guls are tall and round, a relatively simple and vary slightly from row to row.

Low to middle pile, foundation exposed in places, patched, discolouration. All four sides secured. Symmetrically knotted, shared warp, beige woollen warp and weft.

20. Ersari Wedding Trapping

Second Half Nineteenth Century 5'4" x 1'11" / 163cm x 58cm

An outstanding example of the Turkoman aesthetic, this trapping has an exceptional balance of a strong orange/red, a grass green border, three distinct blues, a clear strong apricot and highlights of a yolky yellow. Corroded white cotton picks out the outline of the main medallion which in turn is surrounded and almost cocooned by an undyed brown wool. Incredibly glossy wool causes a dramatic change of colour depending from which angle it is viewed.

In near mint condition, full high pile everywhere. Asymmetrically knotted open left, beige woollen warp and weft.

21.Yomud Asmalyk

Circa 1850 4'9" x 2'11" / 145cm x 90cm

An unusually large and crisp Asmalyk with some interesting features. The three wonderfully delicate floral motifs that protrude into the field on either side are unusual not only for their presence but that they are also at odds with the generally stiff and formal look of the trapping. Likewise, two of the 'trees' are drawn not only with tops, but these tops differ again, one very delicately drawn and the other somewhat simpler. The presence of a human figure on the left side has not, as far as I know, been previously recorded.

In excellent overall condition with some minor moth bites, kilim ends. Symmetrically knotted, slight depression to warp, shared warp knotting, ivory woollen warp, grey/brownweft.

22. Ersari Beshir Ikat Chuval

Circa 1850 4'6" x 2'11" / 138cm x 90cm

The design derived from 'Ikat' work is very effective visually and is here nicely executed. The ivory details jump out and the repeat of the plant motif from the skirt in the centre of the guls is quite unusual.

Good condition with even low to mid pile, both sides trimmed a little, original kilim remnants top and bottom. Asymmetrically knotted open right, grey/brwon woollen warp and weft.

23.Yomud Ensi

Second Half Nineteenth Century 4'5" x 5'8" / 135cm x 173cm

Possibly the prettiest of the three from this group published here but maybe also the youngest. The weave has a certain heaviness that to me suggests a slightly date. However, the deep aubergine ground colour and the 'Bat' border are very attractive features.

Pile height mostly very good, one side is trimmed, three or four small holes have been rewoven, losses to both ends, now secured.

Symmetrically knotted, ivory woollen warp, brown woollen weft.

24.Yomud Kap

Circa 1850 2'3" x 1'3" / 68cm x 38cm

Despite the insect damage to the pile, the design remains crisply drawn. The animal heads that extrude from the trees have been clearly defined as such by the appearance of double horns. Details of yellow appear but only in the main border.

Fairly heavy insect damage, otherwise good pile height, original sides and kilim back present. Asymmetrically knotted open right, grey goat hair warp, brown woollen weft.

25. Beshir Rug Fragment

First Half Nineteenth Century 2'7" x 2'4" / 78cm x 70cm

Outstanding wool defines this small fragment, with a curious allover multi-coloured 'Snowflake' design on an undyed brown field, which started as a red field but then changed.

Pile height very low to very good, patched, original sidecords and some brocaded end finish. Asymmetrically knotted open right, abrashed light brown/ivory goat hair warp, dark brown woollen weft.

26. Beshir Chuval

Circa 1850 4'9" x 3'2" / 145cm x 97cm

Three main motifs are surrounded by zig-zag bands in the ikat style. This example has some extra field designs floating around the top two motifs.

Good pile, slightly low near the top, sides trimmed and re-selvedged, small reweave bottom left corner, ends secured.

Asymmetrically knottted open right, light brown woollen warp and weft.

27. Tekke Main Carpet

Circa 1860 6'4" x 8' / 195cm x 245cm

This Tekke main carpet has the 5 x 10 gul arrangement and the Gurbahge gul as secondary. The simple border of sunburst octogons with cruciform star interiors is quite unusual. Deep pile lends a rich character to the typical Tekke colour.

Good velvety pile allover, some old faded reweaves, original selvedges restored in places, missing lower kilim end.

Asymmetrically knotted open right, ivory woollen warp, light brown woollen weft.

28. Tekke Main Carpet

Pre 1850 6'3" x 8'4" / 192cm x 255cm

The second Tekke Main with the Gurbahge secondary gul has a 4 x 11 gul arrangement and some more serious problems. However, I chose this piece for its intense colour, particularly the light blue, used lavishly throughout.

Mostly low pile with some medium pile, sewn up slits, cloth patches affixed with glue, faded old reweaves, original sidecords partially present, all four sides secured.

29.Yomud Ensi

2nd Half Nineteenth Century 4'7" x 5'10" / 140cm x 180cm

This ensi is in outstanding condition with original kilim end finishes, selvedges and high pile allover. There are old curtain rings still sewn on to the back which would suggest the piece has been hanging, albeit upside down.

Symmetrically knotted, light grey/brown woollen warp, dark brown woollen weft.

30. Tekke 6 Gul

Pre 1850 1'4" x 3'9" / 40cm x 115cm

The Chemche gul is strongly and beautifully depicted in a petrol blue colour in this extremely finely woven 6 gul. These decorative tent bags are known for their strong, clear and generously drawn motifs and also for their texture with thick silky wool of great lustre.

This one is no exception. In excellent pile, some losses to edges. Asymmetrically knotted open right, ivory woollen warp, dark brown woollen weft.