This robe was made by the indigenous people living on the northern most island of Japan. Both men and women wore these robes which are a form of appliche. the blue cotton or linen cloth is sewn on by hand with the white thread forming the design. the ground fabric seems like a handwoven cotton or linen. i am not sure. the robe has two repairs in front which are well done and blend in. The back is in perfect shape. Presently, the Ainu people are mostly integrated into the Japanese culture. THese robes are rare and i believe very beautiful and unique. The white embroidered stripe on the right side of the photo of the front of the robe looks like a signature.