Aigi, Japan, late Edo (circa 1850), cm 128x120. a mid-nineteenth century ‘aigi’ or ‘juban’, which are the Japanese names for an under-kimono. What makes an under-kimono splendid, especially one sewn from 'recycled' cottons as this one is? Aesthetics are the chief criteria for judging beauty and this juban gets good marks. Please note the beautiful play of the austere, subtle, striped bodice against the medium blue of the ‘shibori’ skirt and the powder-light blue of the ‘katazome’ sleeve-ends. Color palette is one consideration toward judging beauty, the other is technique and rarity of cloth. The rarity here come from the fact that usually such aigi were assembled from silk scraps. Here all fabrics are cottons, worked on diverse techniques. Amazing are particularly the sleeve ends (those of a 'small sleeved' kimono which was the height of elegance in Edo period Japan), decorated with 18th century cotton katazome, a stencil-related technique, and depicting a meandering swastika background with superimposed chrysanthemums. The lining is made of plain colour pieces sewn together, and dyed in the shades of indigo, mustard and green, while the lapel of a velvety black. The general look is rather austere, as said, but this was rather common with the strict formalism of late Edo period. The use of cotton for making a slightly padded garment, might point to something to be used during the coldish winter season. Condition is not exactly mint, with mainly wear on the edges and frays in the katazome fabrics, all derived from extensive use. Selecting criteria should be others in these situations, though, and we can only label this aigi as “just lovely”.