Francesca Galloway: Textile Splendours of the East

Francesca Galloway presents 'Textile Splendours of the East'

24th June – 26th July, 2019, 9.30 to 5.30 Monday to Friday

Mayfair, 31 Dover Street, London W1S 4ND

‘Textile Splendours from the East’ – An exhibition to celebrate Hali’s anniversary.

https://www.francescagalloway.com/

Francesca Galloway is a leading specialist dealer in Indian painting and courtly objects, and Islamic and European textiles.

Francesca is well known internationally for her expertise, taste and integrity. Her career began in the early 1970s when she

worked for Christie's in Rome before joining Spink & Son at the height of the Persian art boom in 1976. She became a

director and co-authored a number of seminal exhibitions on Islamic art, Indian painting and textiles, before setting up

her own business 1992.

Please enjoy some images from this fabulous exhibition of textiles and if you are in London be sure not to miss it!

Sogdian Bulls Central Asia, following Sasanian prototypes, probably 7th-8th century AD Silk samite

Silver-gilt repoussé plaque depicting a mandarin duck in flight Central Asia, 7th-9th century Repousse silver-gilt	Rare needleloop embroidery with tree peonies Chinese, Yuan dynasty (1279-1368) Needleloop embroidery over pieces of gilded paper (now in worn condition) on yellow satin damask

Fragment consisting of pieces of three different polychrome silks sewn together, the largest with a design of paired deer within pearled roundels Probably first half of the 7th century	A pair of embroidered boar's heads with pearled roundels, possibly embelishment to be tied to a garment or textile Central Asia, probably mid 7th century (C14 results 635-723 AD); silk of Chinese origin Silk chain stitch on a dark brown self-patterned silk in tabby- 1/3 twill weave

	Part of a short coat in polychrome silk with a repeating design of rosettes and crosses, the design derived from late Sasanian silk costume Central Asia, early 8th century (c. 700 AD); Chinese silk lining Silk samite weave

Polychrome silk border fragment depicting the legs and feet of a pheasant within a roundel, flanked either by a 'rainbow' arrangements of appliqué folded strips of plain silk Central Asia, late 8th or early 9th century, Samite weave, plain silk of Chinese origin	Chinese winged dragons and Hellenistic vine stems Central Asia (Xinjiang), 2nd-4th century AD Silk embroidery, chain stitch on a red silk tabby ground

Woman opening the doors of a building North China, Northern Wei dynasty, late 5th century Silk chain stitch embroidery on damask	Square panel, perhaps a cover, with original lining and two ties Western Central Asia, 14th century (C14 results: 1278-1412 AD) Floss silk embroidery in long and short stain stitch on a warp-faced silk tabby weave ground, couched gilded animal membrane

Short jacket or shirt probably intended to be worn under an outer garment Lightweight monochrome silk with applied panels of a thicker polychrome silk with a repeating design derived from contemporary Sasanian samites (such as those found in Antinoe in Egypt) Western China or the Eastern Silk Road, second half of the 6th century AD

Patchwork silk panel with interlocking ingot design Chinese, Ming dynasty, 14th century Silk, silk damask, flat gold on paper, and silk embroidery	Small panel of embroidery with the eight Buddhist auspicious symbols of Good Fortune Chinese, early Ming dynasty, 1368-1424 Polychrome silk floss in long and short stain stitch embroidered on a deep blue warp faced 3/1 twill weave, the warp yarn of animal hair and the weft of silk yarn. The gilded paper Z-wound around a colourless silk core is couched



Hanging or curtain Morocco, Fez or Tetouan, early to mid-19th century Two loom widths woven in silk lampas, some bands woven with metal thread (silver lamela wrapped around a silk core)

Long length of uncut cloth, possibly for temple or palace furnishings South-east India, Coromandel Coast or Deccan, c. 1800 Cotton; block printed and mordant dyed

Large panel from a bedcover or hanging (palampore) Coromandel Coast for the European (possibly Dutch) market first half of the eighteenth century Cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed

Fragment of a canopy for a Hindu shrine South east India

Choga (man's ceremonial coat) Kashmir, c. 1855-75 Kashmir woven wool embroidered with silver-gilt wrapped thread; chain-stitch, couching


Vaishnavite silk from Assam (East India) Scenes from the Bhagavata Purana and the Ramayana Assam, 17th century Silk lampas
	Khandpaat Deccan, 1800-1850 Cotton, painted with gold and pigments, including copper acetate arsenate
A) Pidan fragment with Buddhist imagery and inscription Cambodia, late 19th or early 20th century Silk; twill-woven weft faced ikat (hol) B) Pidan depicting water festival motifs Cambodia, late 19th or early 20th century Silk; twill-woven weft faced ikat (hol)	Velvet with gold discs in offset rows Mongol Persia, (Il-Khanid dynasty), possibly Tabriz, c. 1300 (C14 1299-1431 AD) Brocaded velvet, silk and gold thread
A meeting of lovers in the dark Folio from a Rasikapriya series Mewar, c. 1660 Opaque pigments and gold on paper	Two pilgrims or guardian figures standing by a cyprus tree South-east India, possibly Masulipatnam in coastal Deccan, mid 18th century Cotton, drawn, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed, profusely highlighted in gold. Blue pigment added later

Moroccan yellow silk double-sided embroidery Probably Sale or Meknes, first half of 20th century Silk embroidery on satin, edge with silk passementerie; line stitch, drawn thread and long and short stitch	3 Tiga-ringgit songkok Indonesia, Sulawesi, Buginese, c. 1900 Raffia palm leaf fibre, stained brown or left white, fine gold wire and flat gold lamella, basketry weave

Cover (bohcha) Ottoman Turkey, with European influence, early 19th Wool, silk chain stitch, silver and silver-gilt lamella couched over cotton	A boy's circumcision costume consisting of a jacket, short pantaloons, and a vest Tunisia, Tunis, first half of 20th century Silver lamella, silver sequins, silver thread, cotton, paper and synthetic satin