Back
This particular ceremonial coat or Choga is ornate with the subtle and elegant embroidery called Chikankaari. With mesmerizing delicacy of needlework, the garment reflects the legacy of the Mughal courts and the origins of Chikankaari. White and shades of white threads wrap the fine and airy muslin cloth in a royal and magical charm. With the most intricate craftsmanship this garment only spells class.
Chikankaari is native to the Nawaab city of India called Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh that was popularly known as the ‘Constantinople of the East’ by European travelers at one point of time. This form of embroidery as some say was brought by the Mughal queen, Nur jahan, consort of Emperor Jahangir. The word Chikan comes from the Persian word ‘chikin’ or “chikeen” which means a kind of embroidered fabric.
These garments were made in muslin as they were appropriate for the heat of the Indian summers. Thus, the whispering whites became quietly symbolic of a very gracious and sophisticated way of life.
Nimble fingers and raw skeins of thread and excellent eyesight could only bring this piece to life. Rooted in antiquity, this Chikankaari garment is decorated with similar floral motifs in the shape of the heart at the sleeves and the top part of the back. The seams are highlighted with a pattern of a continuous 5 petal motif. The collar has the most intricate ornamentation of the Bougainville flowers in a sumptuous flow.
Dated; late 19th or early 20th c.
size: 107 x 174 cms.
price:
Price on request
- Home
- Antique Rugs by Region
- Category
- Profiles
- Post Items Free
- Albums
- Benaki Museum of Islamic Art
- Budapest: Ottoman Carpets
- Gulbenkian Museum
- Islamic Carpets. Brooklyn
- Islamic Textiles. Brooklyn
- Konya Museum: Rugs
- MKG, Hamburg
- MMA: Caucasian Carpets
- MMA: Mamluk Carpets
- MMA: Mughal Indian Carpets
- MMA: Ottoman Carpets
- MMA: Safavid Persian Carpets
- MMA: Turkmen Rugs
- McCoy Jones Kilims
- Ottoman textiles. Met
- Philadelphia Museum
- Rugs and Carpets: Berlin
- Seljuqs at the Met
- TIEM, Istanbul: Carpets
- V&A: Classical Carpets
- Vakiflar Carpets: Istanbul
- Baluch Rugs: Indianapolis
- Gallery Exhibitions
- Jaf an Exhibition
- Alberto Levi Gallery
- Andean Textile
- Christie's London: 2016
- Francesca Galloway
- HALI at 40
- ICOC Washington, DC 2018
- Jajims of the Shahsavan
- London Islamic Week April, 2018
- Mongolian Felts
- Navajo Rugs: JB Moore
- Persian Piled Weavings
- SF Tribal & Textile Art Show 2020
- SF Tribal 2019
- Sotheby's: C. Alexander
- Turkish Prayer Rugs
- Turkmen Main Carpets ICOC 2007