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odhani (gota patti) -
This particular piece, that resembles a garden of flowers in a royal court, is an odhani or veil. It was
worn as a covering over the head and shoulders. The textile decoration seen here is of a metallic silk
tissue called Gota patti. Also known as Lappe ka Kaam, it emerged as an embellishment over plain
cloth, in the dry land of Rajasthan. Gota ribbons seen here were woven with flattened silver wires
and silk threads. This kind of work was quite prevalent during the Mughal period and was greatly
patronized.
The process of stitching Gota on the fabric is called ‘Takaayi’ or what is commonly known as
appliqué. The pattern seen here involves the cutting and folding of the ribbons into basic rhomboid
units, referred to as ‘patti‘(leaves). This is used in different combinations to create elaborate motifs.
The border seen at both the ends has a woven stretch of glittering gold and silver. Its edges are
ornate with curling and entwining laces of blue zari threads. The corners of the fabric are
embroidered with small paisleys and flowers. The exquisite intricacy and craftsmanship of this
odhani is unmatched.
SIZE: 65 x 97 inches
price:
Price on request
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