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Java | Hand-drawn batik “morning / evening” hipcloth (kain panjang pagi soré)

Indonesia, Java, Pekalongan, 1930 - 1960

Hand-drawn (tulis) batik, synthetic dyes

A fine hipcloth hand-drawn in Pekalongan on the north coast of Java,  ...
Java | Hand-drawn batik “morning / evening” hipcloth (kain panjang pagi soré)

Indonesia, Java, Pekalongan, 1930 - 1960

Hand-drawn (tulis) batik, synthetic dyes

A fine hipcloth hand-drawn in Pekalongan on the north coast of Java,  ...
Java | Hand-drawn batik “morning / evening” hipcloth (kain panjang pagi soré)

Indonesia, Java, Pekalongan, 1930 - 1960

Hand-drawn (tulis) batik, synthetic dyes

A fine hipcloth hand-drawn in Pekalongan on the north coast of Java,  ...
Java | Hand-drawn batik “morning / evening” hipcloth (kain panjang pagi soré)

Indonesia, Java, Pekalongan, 1930 - 1960

Hand-drawn (tulis) batik, synthetic dyes

A fine hipcloth hand-drawn in Pekalongan on the north coast of Java,  ...
Java | Hand-drawn batik “morning / evening” hipcloth (kain panjang pagi soré)

Indonesia, Java, Pekalongan, 1930 - 1960

Hand-drawn (tulis) batik, synthetic dyes

A fine hipcloth hand-drawn in Pekalongan on the north coast of Java,  ...
Java | Hand-drawn batik “morning / evening” hipcloth (kain panjang pagi soré)

Indonesia, Java, Pekalongan, 1930 - 1960

Hand-drawn (tulis) batik, synthetic dyes

A fine hipcloth hand-drawn in Pekalongan on the north coast of Java,  ...
Java | Hand-drawn batik “morning / evening” hipcloth (kain panjang pagi soré)

Indonesia, Java, Pekalongan, 1930 - 1960

Hand-drawn (tulis) batik, synthetic dyes

A fine hipcloth hand-drawn in Pekalongan on the north coast of Java,  ...
Java | Hand-drawn batik “morning / evening” hipcloth (kain panjang pagi soré)

Indonesia, Java, Pekalongan, 1930 - 1960

Hand-drawn (tulis) batik, synthetic dyes

A fine hipcloth hand-drawn in Pekalongan on the north coast of Java,  ...
Java | Hand-drawn batik “morning / evening” hipcloth (kain panjang pagi soré)

Indonesia, Java, Pekalongan, 1930 - 1960

Hand-drawn (tulis) batik, synthetic dyes

A fine hipcloth hand-drawn in Pekalongan on the north coast of Java,  ...
Java | Hand-drawn batik “morning / evening” hipcloth (kain panjang pagi soré)

Indonesia, Java, Pekalongan, 1930 - 1960

Hand-drawn (tulis) batik, synthetic dyes

A fine hipcloth hand-drawn in Pekalongan on the north coast of Java,  ...
Java | Hand-drawn batik “morning / evening” hipcloth (kain panjang pagi soré)

Indonesia, Java, Pekalongan, 1930 - 1960

Hand-drawn (tulis) batik, synthetic dyes

A fine hipcloth hand-drawn in Pekalongan on the north coast of Java, in a format called pagi soré, i.e. “morning / evening”: the cloth is bisected along a diagonal line, each half decorated with a different pattern, thus giving the wearer a choice of 2 hipcloths depending on which half was shown on the outside. One half has two and half repeats of a large bouquet of feathery chrysanthemums, with a butterfly hovering over it, against a diamond grid of wavy lines; the other half has more solid flowers and leaves, with a bird and a different butterfly hovering above, on a basket-weave background. Correspondingly, the piece has two different borders, each extending along one long and one short side. The design is distinctive for its combination of lacquer red, coral pink and caramel, which is an Indo-Dutch color scheme, and for the movement incorporated in the picture that suggests a breeze passing through the bouquets. There is an indistinct printed name of the batik-maker along one border.

Context: The pagi soré format for kain panjang developed in the pre-war years along the north coast of Java, where the more elegantly tapering kain panjang began to displace the ubiquitous tubular sarong. The contrast of 2 different patterns gave it its name: originally the lighter side was to be worn as evening dress and the darker side in the morning. During the Japanese occupation, the pagi soré format became more important because it made maximal use of the scarce cotton. During this period and in the 2 decades after the war when it was still made, styles used deeper, more contrastive colors and more intense patterns. (See Heringa & Veldhuisen, Fabric of Enchantment, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 1996, 170-182, for examples). The bouquet (buketan) design was popularized by Indo-European batik-makers.

Condition: The textile has been very well kept and is in perfect condition. There are no holes, stains, or tears whatsoever. The colors are all rich, glowing and vivid, and the cotton is soft, quite robust.

Length: 249 cm; Width: 106.5 cm.











price:  USD 420